A bespoke suit begins in one city and ends in another. For our Antwerp clients it begins here, in a hotel room, an office or a residence somewhere in the city, with a measuring tape and a swatch book. It ends here too, weeks later, delivered as a finished garment that fits like nothing off-the-peg ever could. Between those two moments the suit travels: from Antwerp to our workroom in Bangkok, through the hands of cutters and finishers who have been building suits together for decades, and back again.
This piece follows that journey step by step. Louis Collections has been a best tailor in Bangkok since 1985, and our traveling tailor service brings the full craft to Antwerp several times a year. Understanding what happens to your measurements after we take them helps you appreciate what a bespoke suit actually is — not a garment picked from a shelf, but one that is built over weeks specifically for you.
Everything begins with the measurement session. Our tailor comes to your chosen location in Antwerp your hotel, your office or your home. Around twenty measurements are taken with care, from the shoulder line to the cuff, the lapel to the inseam, so the finished garment follows your exact shape.
But the measurement session is more than tape work. Alongside every number, the tailor is noting things a tape cannot capture: your posture, the slope of your shoulders, whether one sits higher, the way your arms hang, any natural asymmetry, the character of how you carry yourself. These observations shape the pattern as much as the numbers do. Everything is written down. Nothing is left to memory.
With measurements taken, fabric selection begins. Our tailor brings swatch books drawn from our library at our Bangkok workroom, representing cloth from the mills we have worked with for decades. You handle the fabric, feel its weight, see its behaviour in Antwerp’s natural light. Every option is explained: cloth weight, fibre content, how it drapes, how it will wear.
For an Antwerp client, we typically recommend a mid-weight worsted wool for most of the year the Belgian climate rewards it and cashmere blends for the coldest months. Choices are made with your specific purposes in mind: the suit’s occasions, your travel patterns, whether it needs to survive suitcases or live entirely at home.
At the end of the appointment, our tailor leaves with everything needed to build your suit: the measurements, the observations, the fabric choice, and every design decision from the consultation. This documentation returns to our workroom in Bangkok, where the actual making happens.
The workroom has been in continuous operation since 1985. Its cutters, sewers and finishers have been working together for years. This is where your measurements become a suit, and where the four decades of craft that Louis Collections is built on are actually practised.
The first thing that happens at the workroom is that your measurements are translated into a paper pattern. This is done by the cutter typically the most senior craftsman in a bespoke workroom, because the pattern determines everything that follows. If it is right, the finished suit will fit. If it is wrong, no amount of subsequent skill will rescue it.
The pattern is drawn full size on brown paper. Every observation the tailor made in Antwerp is incorporated: shoulder slope, posture, the way you actually stand. Two clients with identical measurements can need genuinely different patterns because they carry themselves differently. Your pattern is drawn to be yours alone, and it will be kept on file at the workroom for every future commission.
With the pattern drafted, the chosen cloth is laid out on the cutting table, weighted, and cut with long shears. This is another judgement stage: grain alignment, pattern matching for striped or checked cloth, efficient use of the material. Once cut, the pieces cannot be added back, which is why the cutter’s care matters.
The custom suits Bangkok has built its reputation on since 1985 begin their physical existence at this stage. What was drawings on paper becomes shaped panels of cloth, ready to be assembled into a jacket, a waistcoat and trousers.
Assembly happens in stages, each handled by sewers who specialise in that stage of the work. The canvas the hidden structural layer that gives a jacket its shape is stitched into the fronts. The seams are joined. The sleeves are set. The collar is built. The linings are attached. Key elements are finished by hand rather than machine, because hand-finishing produces a garment that wears differently and lasts longer.
This whole assembly process takes days rather than hours. A bespoke suit is not built quickly. It is built at the pace the work requires, and shortcuts in construction are what separate a real bespoke suit from a machine-made one that carries the label.
Once the suit has reached the fitting stage, it comes back with our tailor to Antwerp during our next visit. The first fitting is on a basted suit a rough construction with the pattern’s key seams stitched loosely so that adjustments can be made. You wear it. The tailor reads it: how the shoulders sit, how the jacket closes, where the trousers break, whether the collar rests correctly. Small changes are marked directly on the garment. The suit is then taken back apart, refined, and rebuilt.
A second fitting confirms that the adjustments have been made correctly. Occasionally, a very complex commission benefits from a third. When everything is right, the suit is finished the last hand-stitching, the buttonholes, the pressing and delivered.
Delivery happens either during our next Antwerp visit or, if you prefer, shipped securely to your address. The suit arrives with a garment bag and care instructions. Your pattern remains at our Bangkok workroom, on file for future commissions.
Louis Collections has been a bespoke tailoring house on Sukhumvit Road in Bangkok since 1985. Four decades of continuous craft from the same workroom, drawing on Bangkok’s long-established fabric trade for fine wools, cottons and silks, and building every suit from an individual paper pattern drafted for that client. Our traveling tailor service brings that craft to Antwerp and cities across Europe.
To arrange a fitting during our next Antwerp visit, or to be informed of the next trunk show, see https://www.louiscollectionsbangkok.com/trunk-show/ or reach us on WhatsApp at +66 (0) 81 825 5590. Whether this is your first bespoke commission or the continuation of a bespoke relationship you have had before, we are glad to talk it through.
Your measurements, observations about posture and build, fabric choice, and every design decision are documented and return with our tailor to our workroom in Bangkok. There, a paper pattern is drafted specifically for you by our cutter, the cloth is cut, and the suit is assembled. Fittings then happen back in Antwerp during our next visit.
The initial consultation happens during our Antwerp visit. Pattern drafting and construction at our Bangkok workroom take several weeks. First fittings then happen during our next Antwerp visit (usually a few months later), with delivery following once the final adjustments are made. The whole cycle typically spans several months.
No. The entire process, from initial consultation through subsequent fittings and delivery, can be completed through our Antwerp visits. Clients traveling to Bangkok are welcome to visit our workroom, but it is not required at any stage.
The cutter drafts a paper pattern specifically for you, based on the measurements taken in Antwerp and the observations the tailor made about your posture and build. Then the cutter lays the pattern over your chosen cloth and cuts the pieces. The cutter is typically the most senior craftsman in a bespoke workroom because everything downstream depends on the pattern being right.
Wherever suits the client — your hotel, your office or your home in Antwerp. The traveling tailor service is built around the client’s convenience.
Your paper pattern is kept on file indefinitely at our Bangkok workroom. Every subsequent commission is faster and more precise because the pattern already exists and only needs updating for any changes in your build. Many of our clients are on their tenth or fifteenth commission, working from the same evolved pattern.
